Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Feeding a Vietnamese Blue Beauty snake. Mostrar todas las entradas
Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Feeding a Vietnamese Blue Beauty snake. Mostrar todas las entradas

martes, 15 de abril de 2014

How to feed a Vietnamese blue beauty sanke? - Video

Hey :)

Here's a video that I've made of an average weekly feeding session with The Fury. It differs from the feeding technique I put in place when she was a little baby, as feeding her in a different enclosure has not proven to be the real deal over time.

           

As you can see, I am currently feeding Furia two small mediums per week. I have three more mice to go, and have decided to go up a size after that, as there is no visible bulge in her body after swallowing both preys... Depending on how big the mediums are, I will probably skip from a weekly to a 5 days regimen.

See in my area there's not many mice suppliers to choose and pick from, for snakes are not all that famous in Spain. My local supplier is a great guy though, I am not complaining, he's passionate about reptiles and loves to chit chat about them, but as far as mice sizes go... meh. Until now, I've been working with smalls that looked like big fuzzies, so I am not confident that mediums will honor their name. We'll see!

I hope you like the video, and if there's something in particular you'd like to see feel free to let me know.

Scale up!

M.

domingo, 6 de abril de 2014

Vietnamese blue beauty snake feeding - Video: 1 minute lunch!

Hey!

I figured you might be curious to see Furia in action, so here's a little video of her having a fast and easy lunch. I recommend you watch this in HD and full screen, though. 

Something tells me she's ready to go up a mice size...


Disclaimer: no mice were hurt during this film ;) she is always fed with frozen/thawed prey.

Also, as a side note, I am no longer feeding Furia in a separate RUB. I did for a while when she was just a hatchling, and it worked fine until it didn't anymore. I guess the stress of being moved from her terrarium to somewhere else put her off her food, so I decided to feed her in her terrarium and basta. She is doing fantastic lately, as you could see I barely ever have any trouble getting her to eat nowadays...

Scale up!

M.

domingo, 15 de diciembre de 2013

How to get my Vietnamese Blue Beauty snake to eat frozen / thawed mice?

If you have a Blue Beauty snake or are planning on getting one AND you've done your research you've read "voracious appetite" and "amazing feeding response" over a thousand times. VBBs are said to be eager feeders.

When I first brought this bugger home she hadn't been fed on a frozen/thawed pinky ever, so one of my first missions was to switch from live to thawed preys. The path was full of fails, let me tell you.

It was a bumpy ride from the start. I happened to attempt to feed The Fury while in blue. My corn never bothered, but this one has her schedule. If she's in blue OR she is about to be in blue, she doesn't feed. And if she's offered food when in blue, she will attack it and flee, just as if you were wiggling a piece of plastic in her face.

She eventually shed, and I fed her a live fuzzy. It was my first time ever and, mildly put, it just confirmed I'm not into snakes for that. But her belly was full and I was happy.

After that, I introduced Furia to frozen/thawed mice. I used several methods that I will explain below:

1. At first, Furia wasn't familiar with my smell and feared me. I am guessing she hadn't been handled much on her two months' life, and she was reluctant to feed in any human's presence. So I defrosted my pinkies in a glass jar (how & why here) and heated them by putting the jar in a casserole with hot water. It takes a while, I am not going to lie, but putting mice in the microwave (defrost setting) didn't have a happy outcome so...

After that, I put the warm pinky in her terrarium close to where she was hiding, covered 2/3 of the terrarium with a blanket and let her do her business. Or not. 
The reason why I used the blanket in such a way was to make Furia feel unseen and safe; and it worked. Try not to cover the whole terrarium though, VBBs are diurnal snakes and will most gladly eat during the day; it's best not to fool them into thinking it's still dark...

2. If your snake doesn't seem interested by the prey you're offering, it may be because it doesn't smell like food, or not enough to trigger its apetite. When that happened, I brained the pinkies before I heated them, offered them to Furia and 99% of the time they were "gone" when I came back. 


3. Still in the scent section, when you want to get your snake to eat thawed mice, you need to compensate for the lack of prey movement with scent. The first way to keep the mice scent is to defrost it in a closed container, preventing it to enter in direct contact with water. The second is to scent it in mice bedding. 

So if your snake doesn't eat and you're willing to try this, it's easy peasy. Just go to an pet shop and ask the seller to give you some mice dirty bedding. Scent the pinky with it and serve.

4. Something else you can do if your snake does not eat is trying different rodent species. Maybe your VBB will be easier to get started on gerbils or rat pups than on mice; it's worth giving it a shot. Some of them also like to feed on lizards when hatchlings. Scenting your pinkies with other rodents' bedding or with a lizard's bodily fluids can also be an option.


5. At one point, Furia stopped feeding altogether. I was quite puzzled, especially after a few successful feeds. So I decided to get her used to be fed in a separate R.U.B.

For this, I first prepare my feeding gear and mice. Then I take The Fury out of her terrarium and put her in the RUB, where I offer her the prey with thongs. 

Tip: it is better to offer the prey on the RUB floor than wiggling it on your snake's face from above. Think on how you would react if an entrecote was coming at you from the sky..! Just like you, a snake will most likely feel intimidated before a fliying pinky ;)

After a month and a half of trial and error, Furia managed to feed on thawed mice without trouble [except when she's in blue]. I don't even need to heat the pinkies anymore.

I hope this was helpful; which method have you tried? 

Scale up!

M.

miércoles, 11 de diciembre de 2013

How to feed a Vietnamese Blue Beauty snake. Snake feeding gear.

How to feed your VBB will come down to your personal preferences. Here's what I use and why:

Glass jar. As I've had some trouble getting Furia to feed on frozen/thawed mice, I had to find a way to defrost my pinkies while keeping their original scent as much as possible. After trying several methods, I discovered the one that suits me and the beast the better. A closed glass jar will keep the mice's scent, will avoid contact with water if you put it in a casserole to heat and will prevent the mice from going bad if your snake refuses to eat. Put it in the fridge and call it a day!

Thongs. I have never enjoyed the idea to hold dead mice in my hands to feed it to my snakes, so I have used feeding thongs from the start [purchased off eBay, here]. I'd also rather The Fury doesn't associate my body scent with being fed, and that's just one way to ensure that. Again, it's a personal preference, many snake owners don't bother and have never had a problem.


Feeding bowl. I only use the feeding bowl (soap holder) in rare exceptions now, usually when I am in a hurry and don't have the time to feed Furia, then I just leave the pinkies in the bowl for her to find and eat. It prevents her from ingurging bedding and suffer from impaction. I don't really think it is mandatory, as snakes surely ingurge dirt and soil with their meals in the wild, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Until here, all I use when I feed Furia in her terrarium, which is being her personal favorite lately. Check it out:

            


Additional feeding gear (optional):


Back when I started with The Fury she was quite a picky eater, and I found I had more chances to succeed at feeding her when she was fed in a different enclosure.



Feeding R.U.B. This is something I never used with my corn but always did with my Vietnamese Blue Beauty hatchling.

Why? They are said to have such a ferocious feeding response that I worked to separate feeding and handling in my VBB's mind as much as possible.





So what I did is that I put all my feeding gear at hand, take The Fury from her terrarium, put her in the R.U.B. and fed her there. When she was done and her meals were down the lower half of her body, I put her back in her terrarium and leave her be for 48h, in order to allow her to digest peacefully. 


A snake handled while digesting can get stressed and regurge its meal, so it's really better to leave them to it ;)

Scale up!

M.

martes, 26 de noviembre de 2013

Feeding my Vietnamese Blue Beauty - What do I feed my snake?

There are many options when it comes to feeding:
  • Smaller preys quite often (more than once a week)
  • Bigger preys less often (usually every 7 days for hatchlings, yearlings and sub-adults, and every 10 to 14 days for adults)
  • With / without supplements (calcium or vitamins)
If you wish to feed your snake more than once per week, just bear in mind a snake's digestive process is long and can last up to two days. Thus, it is not really recommended to feed a snake more than once every 4 days, which already seems quite a lot if you ask me. 

Also, snakes are opportunistic feeders: they do not eat because they are hungry but rather because they don't know how many time will elapse between one feed and another, so they feed whenever they have the occasion as a matter of survival. If you offered your snake a fuzzy every 4 days, it would most likely take it, but that does not mean it's hungry nor does it evidence a healthy practice. 

Of course, the feeding options listed above all give different results in growth speed and snake health. I found a very interesting experiment by Snake Bytes TV, the results of which did not exactly match my preconceived ideas. Although it was carried out with corn snakes, I am sure we can extrapolate the results. Watch out!

Feeding experiment: hypothesis


Feeding experiment: the results (starts at 02:07)



The Munson Scale mentionned in the video has been thought for average sized colubrids and is obviously not applicable to VBBs after a certain point, as a sub-adult or adult specimen will most likely weigh over 300 gr. However, until then it can be as good an orientation as any other. 
Snake Weight
Prey Weight
Prey name
Quantity of Preys
Interval
4 – 15 gr
2 – 3 gr
Pinky
1
4
16 – 23 gr
3 – 4 gr
Pinky
2
4 – 5
24 – 30 gr
5 – 7 gr
Small fuzzy
1
5 – 6
31 – 50 gr
7 – 9 gr
Fuzzy
1
5 – 6
51 – 90 gr
9 – 12 gr
Hopper
1
6 – 7
91 – 170 gr
13 – 20 gr
Weanling
1
7
171 – 300 gr
20 – 30 gr
Young adult
1
7 – 10

For those of you who are not familiar with the different mice sizes' names, here is a simple picture (not mine, but I can't find the source):

I personally don't follow the Munson Scale and just go by this rule of thumb: I go up a size when the bulge of the swallowed prey is not really visible once it has gone down half of my snake's body. This worked wonders with my corn, though it might need to be nuanced for my VBB girl. 
Because Vietnamese Beauty Snakes are so slender, it might be a good idea not to go up a size right away, but double the prey items instead for a little while and "upgrade" after that.

Aged 5 months old, I currently feed The Fury as I was told by the seller: 2 pinkies every 7 days. It has been working well so far, as you can see in November snake stats.

I hope this has been helpful.

Scale up!

M.