How to raise humidity in a terrarium? / How to make a moist hide

Vietnamese Blue Beauty snakes don't require any specific humidity level as long as they have access to a large (and I mean LARGE) water bowl.

With that said, you may want to consider raising your terrarium's humidity level when your snake is due a shed. A good, one-piece shed requires humidity; if you live in a dry place, you will need to raise it artificially. 

There are a few ways to do this:

1. Move the water bowl above the heat mat (if you have one). This easy step will allow more water to evaporate than keeping the water in the cold side of the tank. Depending on how much you need to increase the humidity level, you may also want to make sure the evaporated water is kept in the terrerarium to the further possible extent by covering its top with a blanket or a plastic bag / cover.

2. Spray water once or twice a day. Just try to keep the spraying moderate.

3. Put damp sphagnum moss in your terrarium. Also, no need to buy it fresh; you can get a large batch, cut it into sections and freeze the ones you will not use. 

To get them ready to use just pour boiling water over them and let them soak in for a while. Pat them with a towel or tissue until they're damp -not wet!- and put them in your terrarium. Voilà!

4. Set a moist hide. First of all, pick a container. Any reptile hide or cave will work, as well as any tupperware or RUB, provided that you cut a hole in it for your snake to get in and out. Second, get some dampening material, i.e. paper or fabric tissues, towels, sphagnum moss, you name it. Third, moisten your dampening material with water and place it in your hide. Leave it preferably in the hot side of your terrarium and let the snake make use of it. If you're worried your snake won't, take all other hides out or leave only moist hides for it to sneak in.

Here's the quick moist hide I made last time The Fury had to shed:

All methods above can be combined as it suits you best. However, keep an eye on your hygrometer, you don't want humidity to raise too much.

For reference, my snakes usually get good sheds when humidity is over 50%. However, I like not to get it under 60% when a shed is due.

Let me know what you think.

Scale up!

M.

Housing a Vietnamese Beauty snake - Enclosure, requirements, tips and warnings.

You're thinking about getting a snake? Then the first think you're going to need is an enclosure. 

My advice is: get the enclosure before the snake. It will be extremely nervous and disoriented on its first day home, so you want to have its enclosure running correctly in order to minimize the stress.

There are many common requirements any snake enclosure should meet, some that are particular to every snake species and others that depend on the keeper's tastes and preferences.

Common requirements [what you NEED to have in a snake viv']:

• a source of heat
• a thermostat
• 2 or more hides
• 2 thermometers
• 1 hygrometer
• bedding
• 1 or more water bowls
• decoration

As a semi-arboreal species, the Vietnamese Beauty snake should have:

• enough space (according to its size)
• branches / something to climb

Depending on the keeper's preferences, there are many avaliable options regarding:

• the enclosure: glass vivarium / wooden vivarium / plastic RUB (really useful box)
• the heat source: heat mat / hot rock (not recommended) / heat lamp
• the thermometers and hygrometer: classic / digital
• the bedding: newspaper / aspen / coco husk / repti bark/ synthetic grass / etc. 
• hides: specifically designed reptile caves / plastic or custom made hides

Why 2 thermometers and 2 hides? Snakes are ectothermic (cold-blooded: they do not produce heat) and thermoregulate thanks to their environment. You will thus need to have a hot spot and a cold spot in your vivarium, creating a temperature gradient in between, so your snake can adequately regulate her body temperature.

Why do I need to get my vivarium running correctly before I put my snake in it? Leaving your snake's nervousness aside, temperature is very important for a snake's metabolism. It's best to have steady and correct temperatures so that you are not continuously roaming around the viv and your snake can focus on settling in. 

How big an enclosure do I need? For a VBB, I wouldn't recommend having a small enclosure, unless you're capable of acquiring bigger enclosures quite often. Hatching 25 cm long, a VBB is going to grow fast and eventually reach up to 2m60, so you can either: 1. get different sized RUBs throughout your snake's life; 2. get a big wooden / glass enclosure that can last you a while and then up to an adult enclosure; 3. get a RUB / wooden / glass enclosure big enough to house even an adult, or 4. use a combination of the above. 

Warning: If you decide to set an enclosure considerably bigger than your snake, you will probably need to provide it with many places to hide, be it caves, foliage or just plenty of bedding to tunnel into. A vast and bare enclosure will probably be a source of stress for your snake, and more so if it's a hatchling or yearling. Keep in mind that your snake is conscious of its own size and strength, you don't want to over-expose it or be a threat to it.

My gear

Enclosure: Right now I have an ExoTerra Natural Terrarium Large (90 x 45 x 45 cm) that is going to last me for a good year and a half or more, though it's obviously not going to be large enough for housing an adult Vietnamese Blue beauty. Here's the whole set up:

Bedding: Even as a hatchling, I never liked the idea of keeping The Fury on newspaper. I've tried repti bark and visually loved it, though finally settled on Aspen snake bedding. I find it less attractive but my snakes love to burrow and tunnel in it; it's crazy how bedding can influence on a snake's activity, ever since I use Aspen my corn and VBB are out and about in their viv. Trial and error.

How much bedding do I need? I like to provide my snakes with a lot of space to burrow in, so I have around 2,5cm of Aspen in the tank.

Heat source: I use a heat mat WITH a thermostat. Thermostats are not an option, so you need to get one. Unless it has an incorporated thermostat, a heat mat will continually and limitlessly produce heat, and may rise the temperature too much or even burn your snake. So you need a thermostat to control the hot end of your viv's temperature and turn off the heat source when the fixed temperature is reached. In order to get an accurate idea of the temperature your snake may be at, you will need to set the probe directly on the viv's floor, under the bedding, and secure it so your snake cannot move it around and mess with it.

I keep my hot spot between 28 and 30º Celsius and my cold spot at room temperature. 

Thermometers / hygrometer: You will need to have a thermometer at each end of your viv, so as to control the exact temperature of your hot and cold spots. You will also need to be able to control the humidity level to make sure your snake's environment is healthy: too humid, it may cause it to have respiratory issues; too dry and your snake will be prone to a bad shed. What I have is one classic thermometer / hygrometer in the cold end, and a more accurate digital thermometer in my hot end. 

TIP: for comfort, you can tie together your thermostat and digital thermometer probes.

Hides: Apart from the bedding and fake plants, that serve as unconventional hides for my snake, I have a hollow plastic branch and two types of caves: a regular cave (this one) and a box-type shelter like so. 

TIP: snakes feel secure in small places. If you're practical or are on a budget, there's no real need to buy all hides' sizes to match your snake's, you can always buy one or more sizes up and fill it with plants or bedding to make it feel smaller to your snake.

Branches: Although you can't really see them here, I have a plastic malleable branch (jungle vine) going up to 25 or 30 cm, so my snake can climb or rest "in the heights". To be completely honest with you, I absolutely dislike this vine: it is a pain in the butt to place after every clean up and don't seem to stay secured in a place. 

Warning: if you can get your hands on a natural branch to put in your snake's viv just go ahead. But be sure that: 1. it is completely smooth and your snake won't get hurt, and 2. it is properly disinfected. To disinfect it, you can either:

• put it in the oven over 150º for at least half an hour (and let it cool down)
• put it in a mix of water and bleach (or baby bottle disinfectant) for at least half an hour (and let it air dry in a safe place)
• combine or repeat the above

Water bowl: a large water bowl is always recommended when keeping a snake. For a VBB, the bigger the better. These snakes do not require specific humidity levels, but will gladly bathe in their water bowls. 

Warning: if you do not use a specific reptile water bowl, be sure to pick a heavy and steady one. If not, the snake may knock over the container and spill the water, getting the bedding wet. Remember that a very humid environment is not recommended for VBBs.

________

Okay. Now that you have all the stuff you need, your temperatures are stable and your snake is in its new home... be patient and let it settle in at its own pace. 

• For newly acquired snakes, there is a "7 days rule", according to which you should only disturb your snake to change its water for the first 7 days. I know, it's hard. 
• For snakes you are moving into a different enclosure, I'd leave it be for at least 2 days.

I hope this has been helpful. If you have any doubt or comment, feel free to let me know in the comments section below or to drop me an email.

Scale up!

M.